OH AND OBAMA JUST WON THE DEMOCRATIC CANDIDACY!!! SICK!!!
I have been prancing around the office telling everyone, and poor things, they are so nice but don't really care. They just nod their heads and smile and say, "Ok, Ok, tixcha tixcha." "Congratulations, Ok, Ok."
YES!!!!!!
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Caretakers and Gurkhas
After work yesterday, I was supposed to meet my American friend from Alabama and his mother at their hotel to then go to a traditional Newari dinner. They are very good family friends with a kid from Nepal who was living in the states, but finally convinced the Alabamans to visit his homeland for a few weeks. Newari is one of the castes in Nepal- I think it focuses on something to do with music? Brahmen is the priestly caste, and Shah is the caste of royal blood, Newari is the music, or dance caste? Maybe something about the worship?
Anyways, Janish, the Newari boy, really wanted us to come enjoy a traditional Newari dinner complete with flutes, rice beer, etc. I met the Alabamans at their hotel (conveniently only a 5 minute walk from my new location). We sat down to have a cup of tea first - cups of tea are prerequisites to everything here- and I could not even keep the tea down. When Janish arrived to pick us up, I begged just to go back to the guest house, I felt terrible.
10 minutes after they dropped me off, as I was sprawling in bed in lots of pain, they were knocking at my door. Janish and BD from Alabama had bought a huge stand-up fan to drown out the noise from the streets and keep the room cool, so I would sleep better during the night while I was sick. SO ridiculously nice. I am beginning to think that is just the way things operate around here though. BD's mom called this morning to make sure I was not feeling sick alone, without fluids or a mother "to keep an eye on me." - heartachingly kind.
So, after lots of antibiotics and other medicine - products of thoughtful Dad and Uncle Steve - I am at work again, and feel lots better. I have been able to keep down a simple breakfast of toast and coffee from the hotel cafe. Actually, I am at work, and just looked at the time. I have to go to start working on this project before it piles up and I am in Biratnagar with nothing but blonde hair!!
Oh, and apparently I will have to speak REALLY slow - already a big problem for me during public speaking - because no one understands the American accent. Way too bourgeousie after the British accent.
That reminds me of something else, I told Dad this morning, Nepal was never colonized by any foreign power. The Gurkhas, or warriors from the hills defeated the British during their conquest of India. Presumably one of the only foreign entities to do so during the great period of British colonization. Pity we don't learn about that much in school. I wish I was a Gurkha.
Anyways, Janish, the Newari boy, really wanted us to come enjoy a traditional Newari dinner complete with flutes, rice beer, etc. I met the Alabamans at their hotel (conveniently only a 5 minute walk from my new location). We sat down to have a cup of tea first - cups of tea are prerequisites to everything here- and I could not even keep the tea down. When Janish arrived to pick us up, I begged just to go back to the guest house, I felt terrible.
10 minutes after they dropped me off, as I was sprawling in bed in lots of pain, they were knocking at my door. Janish and BD from Alabama had bought a huge stand-up fan to drown out the noise from the streets and keep the room cool, so I would sleep better during the night while I was sick. SO ridiculously nice. I am beginning to think that is just the way things operate around here though. BD's mom called this morning to make sure I was not feeling sick alone, without fluids or a mother "to keep an eye on me." - heartachingly kind.
So, after lots of antibiotics and other medicine - products of thoughtful Dad and Uncle Steve - I am at work again, and feel lots better. I have been able to keep down a simple breakfast of toast and coffee from the hotel cafe. Actually, I am at work, and just looked at the time. I have to go to start working on this project before it piles up and I am in Biratnagar with nothing but blonde hair!!
Oh, and apparently I will have to speak REALLY slow - already a big problem for me during public speaking - because no one understands the American accent. Way too bourgeousie after the British accent.
That reminds me of something else, I told Dad this morning, Nepal was never colonized by any foreign power. The Gurkhas, or warriors from the hills defeated the British during their conquest of India. Presumably one of the only foreign entities to do so during the great period of British colonization. Pity we don't learn about that much in school. I wish I was a Gurkha.
Biratnagar
Moving into the new hotel proved pretty painless, besides the fact that it was so early in the morning. This hotel, actually called a "guest house," hosts kids entering into the British equivalent of the Peace Corps in Nepal, before they move on to their rural programme districts. There are quite a few young adults, although this time in Nepal, before the monsoon hits, is not exactly tourist season, so westerners are few and far between.
Even though I felt terrible, I worked for a good while yesterday, trying to finish the outline for my project. I am approaching the project somewhat like a giant research paper. So, first an outline, then further literature research, followed by case specific interviews (from both educated and uneducated people), and then a plan of action for this organization based around field and literature evidence. When I finally felt AWFUL in the afternoon, I took what I had to Dr. Subedi to examine. He actually liked it so much, he asked me to give a 30 minute presentation in Biratnagar next week at the big Nepal Tuberculosis conference. God. I really don't know if I can do thirty minutes.
So, Biratnagar is in the far eastern Terai (lower Indian plain) of Nepal. Temperatures in the summer remain well over 100 degrees. As the second largest city in Nepal, the BNMT uses Biratnagar as a springboard to reach impoverished communities in the Terai - I think something like 80 percent of the Nepalese population lives in the Terai, hence the area constitues a main BNMT target.
After the TB conference (and this "speech") Dr. Subedi suggested that I stay a few extra days in the Terai and travel to several of their "programme districts" to interview village elders and gather information about climate change as perceived by those it directly affects. In the interest of safety, I will have one of the staff members of the BNMT with me as a travel companion and also to serve as a translator (still working on the Nepali- but it's coming SLOWLY).
Upon returning to Kathmandu, I will set up interviews with employees from several national and international NGOs, GOs, and INGOs to understand perceptions on the effects of climate change from professional perspectives. When all this is finished Dr. Subedi wants a plan that outlines "Health Adaptation to the Effects of Climate Change." whew, lots of work coming up.
Even though I felt terrible, I worked for a good while yesterday, trying to finish the outline for my project. I am approaching the project somewhat like a giant research paper. So, first an outline, then further literature research, followed by case specific interviews (from both educated and uneducated people), and then a plan of action for this organization based around field and literature evidence. When I finally felt AWFUL in the afternoon, I took what I had to Dr. Subedi to examine. He actually liked it so much, he asked me to give a 30 minute presentation in Biratnagar next week at the big Nepal Tuberculosis conference. God. I really don't know if I can do thirty minutes.
So, Biratnagar is in the far eastern Terai (lower Indian plain) of Nepal. Temperatures in the summer remain well over 100 degrees. As the second largest city in Nepal, the BNMT uses Biratnagar as a springboard to reach impoverished communities in the Terai - I think something like 80 percent of the Nepalese population lives in the Terai, hence the area constitues a main BNMT target.
After the TB conference (and this "speech") Dr. Subedi suggested that I stay a few extra days in the Terai and travel to several of their "programme districts" to interview village elders and gather information about climate change as perceived by those it directly affects. In the interest of safety, I will have one of the staff members of the BNMT with me as a travel companion and also to serve as a translator (still working on the Nepali- but it's coming SLOWLY).
Upon returning to Kathmandu, I will set up interviews with employees from several national and international NGOs, GOs, and INGOs to understand perceptions on the effects of climate change from professional perspectives. When all this is finished Dr. Subedi wants a plan that outlines "Health Adaptation to the Effects of Climate Change." whew, lots of work coming up.
Monday, June 2, 2008
Sick
On a less sardonic note than the previous post, I went to work early this morning and by 1, in true Nepalese fashion, I skipped out to explore some of the city.. Also, they had not yet set up the internet in my "office," so I was having some trouble with research anyways. I got a little lost, and wound up in a sort of dicey situation. I was supposed to call Jitske's buddy who lives in a really cheap guest house to ask if he would take me by, and show me his room - to see if I could potentially stay there. The cell phone the BNMT had given me wasn't working, so I decided I would find the damn place myself. Needless to say, I would up very lost a long way from home, wearing terrible walking shoes. I ended up introducing myself to a lovely British ex-pat and her son from Boise/ China who directed me to a hospital with directions.
Long story short, I found Kors (the boy staying in this guest house) and he was extremely helpful in getting me a room. This guest house is immensely less expensive than my hotel, and I really like it much much more. It is between Lazimpat and Thamel in an area called Lanichou which in Nepali sounds like "lunch hour." I move in tomorrow morning before work.
Thus far, I have poo-pooed Thamel as a stupid tourist destination. Thamel is the area in Kathmandu that supposedly caters to tourists, selling North Face jackets, ready-made Tibetan rugs, and Indian turquoise. In the spirit of exploration, I left Kors and the guest house and decided to give Thamel a go. Excellent choice. Thamel is where it's AT in Kathmandu. - I mean I only walked around for a few hours, but that is what I decided.
Explain more later- I made a few poor meal decisions today that I shouldn't have and now I think I'm getting sick... Damnit. I have to watch the meat here!!!
Also, had some Nepalese homemade liquor from a strange man in a corner store where I stopped to buy a beer and crackers for dinner. It tastes dangerously like tequila plus whiskey. Very strange. Apparently his mother brews it with mandarins or something. I think they could still learn a thing or two from Tennessee moonshine.
Definitely getting real sick real fast.
Long story short, I found Kors (the boy staying in this guest house) and he was extremely helpful in getting me a room. This guest house is immensely less expensive than my hotel, and I really like it much much more. It is between Lazimpat and Thamel in an area called Lanichou which in Nepali sounds like "lunch hour." I move in tomorrow morning before work.
Thus far, I have poo-pooed Thamel as a stupid tourist destination. Thamel is the area in Kathmandu that supposedly caters to tourists, selling North Face jackets, ready-made Tibetan rugs, and Indian turquoise. In the spirit of exploration, I left Kors and the guest house and decided to give Thamel a go. Excellent choice. Thamel is where it's AT in Kathmandu. - I mean I only walked around for a few hours, but that is what I decided.
Explain more later- I made a few poor meal decisions today that I shouldn't have and now I think I'm getting sick... Damnit. I have to watch the meat here!!!
Also, had some Nepalese homemade liquor from a strange man in a corner store where I stopped to buy a beer and crackers for dinner. It tastes dangerously like tequila plus whiskey. Very strange. Apparently his mother brews it with mandarins or something. I think they could still learn a thing or two from Tennessee moonshine.
Definitely getting real sick real fast.
'Merica
So, did you know about the American Embassy in Nepal? Little Nepal whose average GDP is about 256$/year, a country about the size of Alabama, has a 75 million dollar state-of-the-art American Embassy. Beautiful, don't we love our cowboys. Protectin' us from all those craaazy intimidating Nepalese with pop-guns loaded with bananas and rice. Oh good.
It was built a few years ago in a super-covert operation in which Turkish people were imported, built one part of the facility, then exported before they knew too much. I know that Nepal is close to Pakistan and other "dangerous areas," but if you don't want people to pay attention to you, don't attract attention with a multi-million dollar facility. It begs the question, what are you hiding behind all that security and money?
Anyways, behind this all is the fact that Nepal is located strategically between India and China, two up-and-coming industrial giants. Still, it seems against all "good christian values" to build this huge facility in the middle of a destitute country. Literally, lepers, beggars, men without eyes or legs sit next to women shrunken from malnutrition as they nurse babies with flies in their eyes and mouths. It is like a city about to either explode into chaos, or implode from immense poverty. No law enforcement in Kathmandu. No sanitary system in Kathmandu- raw sewage runs in the streets, big "nice" streets. No water in Kathmandu not contaminated with all forms of typhus, dengue fever, yellow fever, hepatitis (any letter) ..and on and on.
I do not claim to know what to do to solve the problem, but I don't think the answer skirts around spending millions of dollars in the faces of people with nothing. If you want to make people hate you, rub your success in their faces that they already can't pick up out of the dirt. Not only does this embassy have a massive compound of government offices, they have an even more imposing structure for "recreation." Heated olympic pools, soccer field, workout gym, McDonalds (the only one in Nepal) basketball court, 9-hole golf, arcade, etc.
It was built a few years ago in a super-covert operation in which Turkish people were imported, built one part of the facility, then exported before they knew too much. I know that Nepal is close to Pakistan and other "dangerous areas," but if you don't want people to pay attention to you, don't attract attention with a multi-million dollar facility. It begs the question, what are you hiding behind all that security and money?
Anyways, behind this all is the fact that Nepal is located strategically between India and China, two up-and-coming industrial giants. Still, it seems against all "good christian values" to build this huge facility in the middle of a destitute country. Literally, lepers, beggars, men without eyes or legs sit next to women shrunken from malnutrition as they nurse babies with flies in their eyes and mouths. It is like a city about to either explode into chaos, or implode from immense poverty. No law enforcement in Kathmandu. No sanitary system in Kathmandu- raw sewage runs in the streets, big "nice" streets. No water in Kathmandu not contaminated with all forms of typhus, dengue fever, yellow fever, hepatitis (any letter) ..and on and on.
I do not claim to know what to do to solve the problem, but I don't think the answer skirts around spending millions of dollars in the faces of people with nothing. If you want to make people hate you, rub your success in their faces that they already can't pick up out of the dirt. Not only does this embassy have a massive compound of government offices, they have an even more imposing structure for "recreation." Heated olympic pools, soccer field, workout gym, McDonalds (the only one in Nepal) basketball court, 9-hole golf, arcade, etc.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Pokhara
While in Pokhara, I unwittingly fell prey to several cultural lessons. As a much smaller city than Kathmandu, Pokhara was less intimidating. Dr. Anil ownes a house near Amar Singh Chowke- "chowke" being the Nepali word for junction. (Really trying to learn)
First I should qualify this by defining a typical house in which nepalese people live. All streets are lined with these garage things that sell anything: traditional saris, vegetables and produce, goats, gowns, knock-off American items (my favorite is their version of Lay's brand sour cream and onion chips, it is "LAYS. American Style, Cream, and Onion").
Anyways, the people in Nepal live above these garages, but the buildings are almost all decrepid and putrid, by western standards and would have been demolished by the health department a decade ago. Actually in Pokhara though, some of these dwelling things date back 400 years. People are still living in them, selling the same things. The only apparent change is old Jimmy Buffet t-shirts have replaced more traditional wear. So, Dr. Anil grew up in one of these, but went to college, earned a PhD, bought the entire complex, gave it to neighbors, and built a house behind it, facing in the giant "himalyas."
I was able to have awesome conversations with his daughter-in-law about their caste-system, marriage, hindu religion, patriarchy, and Nepali lessons. To highlight, the caste system is still thriving in Nepal. Kamala (the girl) said her mother went to America and hated it because she could not believe women did their own "house work" without the "help." When a Nepali girl marries, -first of all the ceremony is days long and highly elaborate- the marriage is still arranged by parents as to who and when, although in most cases the male still has input as to when. Following, the girl leaves her family entirely, and can never again call them her "mother or father" because they have been replaced.
I have never seen such hospitality as the way these women serve the males and guests. They (women, but Nepalese as a whole) remain at a constant state of attention to how everyone feels, tired, thirsty, happy, etc.
Dr. Anil took me to several Hindu temples in Pokhara, one on a island in a legendary lake, Phewatal. You can stand on the island and look across to the hills and the himalayas but if you catch the time right, the water from Phewatal reflects the hills and the himalayas, making the landscape seem even more epic.
Sardhi (Dr. Anil's wife) is a gem of a woman, a very very happy person. She doesn't speak english, but went to great lengths to show me everything "american" that I might know to make me feel more at home. We went around to every "aaavvvvocath" (avocado) tree in their garden. She also had a traditional shalwar kamiz - or the dress of unmarried Hindu girls- made for me to match the necklace I've been wearing.
Mailai Pokhara ekdam raamru laagyo.
-literally: To me Pokhara very pleasing I feel.
(I'm trying)
First I should qualify this by defining a typical house in which nepalese people live. All streets are lined with these garage things that sell anything: traditional saris, vegetables and produce, goats, gowns, knock-off American items (my favorite is their version of Lay's brand sour cream and onion chips, it is "LAYS. American Style, Cream, and Onion").
Anyways, the people in Nepal live above these garages, but the buildings are almost all decrepid and putrid, by western standards and would have been demolished by the health department a decade ago. Actually in Pokhara though, some of these dwelling things date back 400 years. People are still living in them, selling the same things. The only apparent change is old Jimmy Buffet t-shirts have replaced more traditional wear. So, Dr. Anil grew up in one of these, but went to college, earned a PhD, bought the entire complex, gave it to neighbors, and built a house behind it, facing in the giant "himalyas."
I was able to have awesome conversations with his daughter-in-law about their caste-system, marriage, hindu religion, patriarchy, and Nepali lessons. To highlight, the caste system is still thriving in Nepal. Kamala (the girl) said her mother went to America and hated it because she could not believe women did their own "house work" without the "help." When a Nepali girl marries, -first of all the ceremony is days long and highly elaborate- the marriage is still arranged by parents as to who and when, although in most cases the male still has input as to when. Following, the girl leaves her family entirely, and can never again call them her "mother or father" because they have been replaced.
I have never seen such hospitality as the way these women serve the males and guests. They (women, but Nepalese as a whole) remain at a constant state of attention to how everyone feels, tired, thirsty, happy, etc.
Dr. Anil took me to several Hindu temples in Pokhara, one on a island in a legendary lake, Phewatal. You can stand on the island and look across to the hills and the himalayas but if you catch the time right, the water from Phewatal reflects the hills and the himalayas, making the landscape seem even more epic.
Sardhi (Dr. Anil's wife) is a gem of a woman, a very very happy person. She doesn't speak english, but went to great lengths to show me everything "american" that I might know to make me feel more at home. We went around to every "aaavvvvocath" (avocado) tree in their garden. She also had a traditional shalwar kamiz - or the dress of unmarried Hindu girls- made for me to match the necklace I've been wearing.
Mailai Pokhara ekdam raamru laagyo.
-literally: To me Pokhara very pleasing I feel.
(I'm trying)
Himalayas
If you ever travel by vehicle from Kathmandu to Pokhara, sit on the right side of the car and just look. Much more amazing than the mountains are the communities that spring up beside the road, clinging to the steep walls of the inner Ceti Nadi. These farming communities live, like most people in developing countries, in abject and total poverty. But more amazing than any "noble savage" myth you might make of this, was the practicality with which they used the scape they were given. This region is one of the most productive in Nepal, but without the benefit of flat land with rich soil as the case with the people farming in lowland Terai.
The central belt of Nepal was humorously named "the hills" as a midpoint between the Indian plain, or Terai, and the upper mountain belt, or Himal. "The hills" or pahad in Nepali are giant blocks of earth that shoulder upwards while jungle-like flora creep up their steep sides. I assume that they must look something like the mountains in British Columbia, enormous and green. They are tall enough to broach tree-line, but the Himalayas just miles north catch moisture moving upward from the Indian ocean and repel it back to these "hills" making them fabulously lush even at high altitudes.
I saw the Himalayas for the first time a few days ago walking around Pokhara with Dr. Anil and his family. It was raining, and at first I kept wondering why the clouds were so black in come places... but this was rock from the Annapurna massif in the distance. The height of these mountains are like absolutely nothing I have ever seen. As the rainclouds gapped for a brief moment, you could see the upper peaks in full daylight, above the clouds and storm, more than 5 verticle miles in the sky.
The next morning I got up around 5 am to see the full range from the roof of Dr. Anil's house. I seriously have never imagined anything like these mountains. Every time I turned around I knew they would be there shining high above the "hills," but each time I was freshly taken aback at just how high above these hills the mountains rose. They easily double or triple the size of the enormous hills.
The central belt of Nepal was humorously named "the hills" as a midpoint between the Indian plain, or Terai, and the upper mountain belt, or Himal. "The hills" or pahad in Nepali are giant blocks of earth that shoulder upwards while jungle-like flora creep up their steep sides. I assume that they must look something like the mountains in British Columbia, enormous and green. They are tall enough to broach tree-line, but the Himalayas just miles north catch moisture moving upward from the Indian ocean and repel it back to these "hills" making them fabulously lush even at high altitudes.
I saw the Himalayas for the first time a few days ago walking around Pokhara with Dr. Anil and his family. It was raining, and at first I kept wondering why the clouds were so black in come places... but this was rock from the Annapurna massif in the distance. The height of these mountains are like absolutely nothing I have ever seen. As the rainclouds gapped for a brief moment, you could see the upper peaks in full daylight, above the clouds and storm, more than 5 verticle miles in the sky.
The next morning I got up around 5 am to see the full range from the roof of Dr. Anil's house. I seriously have never imagined anything like these mountains. Every time I turned around I knew they would be there shining high above the "hills," but each time I was freshly taken aback at just how high above these hills the mountains rose. They easily double or triple the size of the enormous hills.
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